millinery dictionary

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Name Description
ABACCA  (Musa textilis) A plant grown in the Philippines that produces the fiber used in the production of sisal and sinamay.
ABRAHAM LINCOLN  Abraham Lincoln’s hat was a silk stovepipe (top hat) which was made for him by George Hall of Springfield, Illinois. He wore it because of the President’s lack of interest in his appearance!
AGAL (AH GAUL) The thick cords of wool which hold the KAFFIYEH, the clothe headdress of the desert people, in place.
ALPINE  Sport hat of soft felt or tweed. The crown slants upward to a lengthwise crease. The narrow brim is rolled up at the back and turned down in front . Brush or feather trim in the headband. Adapted from hats worn by people in the Swiss Alps. Also TYROLEAN HAT.
AMMANA  Large wound turban worn by Muslim's.
ANADEM  (a wreath or garland for the head)
ANNIE HALL ( LATE 1970’S )  In the movie "Annie Hall," the actress Diane Keaton popularized a fashion consisting of a drooping hat, long vest, wide tie, baggy pants and a man's shirt.
ARCTIC CAP  Fabric crown insulated with goose down. Mouton lamb storm flaps turn down to protect neck, ears and forehead.
ATEF  Illustration of the Egyptian Helmet Crown, from the portrait bust of Queen Nofretete, Dynasty XVII, c.1372
ATTIFET ( MID 16C. )  French headdress consisting of hair rolled over pads.  Ladies' hat which came to a point just above the forehead and had a veil at the back)
AUTOMOBILE BONNET ( EARLY 20C. )  Large brimmed hat worn with a long chiffon, net or tulle scarf that enveloped the face and hat and tied under the chin. Worn to protect the wearer while riding in the new open automobiles over dusty roads.
BABUSHKA ( BAH BOOSH KA )  Russian word for grandmother, A triangular shaped head shaped head scarf worn over the head and tied under the chin.
BABY STUART CAP  Close fitting, shirred lace infant's cap. From the 17c. portrait of the infant Stuart prince by Van Dyck.
BALMORAL ( BAL MOR AL )  The Scotch BLUEBONNET of the highlanders. Blue woolen beret cap with top projecting over a tartan band of Stuart colors, checkered design. In 1850, Queen Victoria and her Prince Consort made the Aberdeenshire, Scotland castle of Balmoral their summer residence, The Queen dressed the prince in the Highland costume and created a fashion.
BANDEAU  A headband of material, structured or unstructured.
BANDINO HAT  ( 1930's ) Woman's large
BARBE ( 14TO 16C. )  A long piece of vertically pleated linen, worn under the chin and covering the chest. With a black hood and long black veil. The headdress of widows and mourners.
BARBETTE (LATE 12C.,13C. AND EARLY 14C. )  Linen chin band, pinned in position on top of the head. Illustration shows the FILLET, a stiffened band of linen, wound over the BARBETTE covered with a small veil.
BARRET  Wide, flat cap worn during the Middle Ages by priests. Barret of velvet with embroidery and feathers shown in the 15c. and 16c. paintings by Holbein.
BASHLYK ( ANCIENT )  Round
BASQUE BERET (BASK BA RAY )   Flat, round, woolen fabric cap worn by Basque peasants. Usually woven in one piece
BAVOLET ( BA VO LAY )  A cap worn by French peasant women. A 19c style called the CURTAIN BONNET, had a back ruffle, called a bavolet, that shaded the neck. In the 16c., the BAVOLETTE was a piece of fabric that was folded and attached to the cap, with the folds projecting over the forehead and hanging down in the back.
BEANIE ( 20C., AMERICAN )  Small, round skull
BEARSKIN  A large furry high crowned hat, which is part of a uniform worn by the Coldstream Guards
BEAVER  A expensive felt hat made from felted beaver fur.
BEAVER  A hat of various crown and brim shapes. Originally, in 14c., made of beaver skin. In 16c., made from felted beaver fur. In 17c., the tall top hat, made of silk in imitation of beaver.
BEEFEATER  The narrow
BEEHIVE  High, tapered crown, Shaped like a beehive. Hat usually has a narrow brim.
BELLBOY OR BELLHOP  A small, stiff cap in pillbox shape, usually trimmed with braid or buttons, sometimes with a chin strap. Copy of a cap worn by hotel bellboys.
BERET  Cap made from felt, felted jersey or fabric with soft, wide, circular crown.
BERET ( BA RAY )  A cap with a round flat crown of varying widths. Made of felt, wool or other fabric. Forms of the beret have been found since Ancient Times. In 15c., HALO BERET. Also BASQUE BERET, PLUMED BERET, TAM O' SHANTER, PANCAKE BERET, MONTGOMERY BERET.
BERRETINO ( BER RET TEE NO )   Square, scarlet skullcap with corners pinched in. As worn by Cardinals of the Catholic Church. See BIRETTA
BEST STUFF  19th century term for rabbit fur, including the backs and the best parts of the sides mixed together.
BETHLEHEM HEADDRESS  Truncated, cone
BIBI BONNET (BEE BEE BUNNEH )  Appeared around 1830's as a smaller version of the POKE BONNET. At first it was fitted close to the sides of the head, later the brim flared upward and forward in front. In the late 19c., any small fanciful and elegant hat was called BIBI. In 1956, Sally Victor came out with a BIBI style.
BICORN OR BICORNE ( BY CORN )  A variation of the cocked hat, appearing around 1790, and supplanting the TRICORNE. The brim of the BICORNE is folded up in front and back. The BICORNE became the military dress hat of the British, American and French. The WELLINFTON was a version that had tassels. The NAPOLEON hat was a BICORNE with a tricolor cockade.
BICORNE OR BICORN  Hat of the late 18th and early 19th century, wide brims were folded up to form two points.
BIGGIN  (practical tightfitting linen cap which often tied under the chin)
BIGGIN ( BIG IN ) ( DER. FR. BEGUINE, A CAP WORN BY NUNS )  A coif like cap, with ties under the chin, 16c. and 17c.
BIRCAGE  Hat of stiffened veiling, shaped like a birdcage.
BIRETTA  Square cap worn by clergy the crown has three or four projections.
BIRETTA ( BI RET AH )  Since 17c., a square cap with three or four upright projections, radiating from the center crown . Worn by Roman Catholic clergy. Developed, since 13c., out of a cap formed like the modern beret. Also BERRETTA, BIRRETTA, BIRETUM, BARRET
BLOCK   A wooden form used as a mould to shape, by hand a brim or crown.
BLOCKING  Is the term used to describe the action of molding a hat shape.
BLUEBONNET  Broad, slat cap of dark blue wool, woven in one piece. Narrow tartan headband. Colored tuft on top. Also BALMORAL.
BOATER  Flat-topped hat with small flat brim. traditionally, made of stiffened straw braid.
BOATER (BRITISH TERM )  A stiff, straight
BONGRACE ( 16C. AND 17C. )  Oblong shaped, stiff material which dips over the forehead and drapes in back, worn over a coif.
BONNET  Women's or girl's head-dress, with deep brim and ribbons to tie under the chin.
BONNET  (a brimless Scotch cap of seamless woolen fabric OR a cloth or straw hat tied under the chin and worn by women and children)
BONNET  Until 16c.
BONNET ROUGE  Red cap worn during the French Revolution as a symbol of liberty.
BOUDOIR CAP ( BOO DWAR )  Softly shirred cap with a lace ruffle. In 19c., and 20c., a cap worn to cover undressed women's hair.
BOURRELET  Originally a twisted scarf or turban worn on the helmet. A 15c. term for the padded roll worn by both men and women as a base for a headdress.
BOWLER  Oval hat with round, rigid crown and a small, shaped, curved brim. Also known as a derby, because the style was made popular by the Earl of Derby in 19th century England.
BOWLER ( BOLE ER )  In 1850, William Bowler made a hard felt hat, designed by the London hatter, Lock, for Sir William Coke. It was created to protect the head while riding horseback. The hat has a low melon
BRETON  Women's hat with domed crown and brim turned-up all around.
BRETON SAILOR  ( bret on ) ( French, bretonh ) Woman's hat with a brim that turns up evenly all around.
BRIDAL VEIL  White or ivory veil worn during wedding ceremony. 
BRIM   Projecting edge of a hat.
BROADBRIM  Term is nickname for Quaker, Friend. See Quaker Hat.
BUBBLE MELON SHAPED  pillbox cap.
BUCKRAM  Stiff netting used to make hats. May be blocked or sewn. Once used by milliners to make blocks for limited use.
BULBOUS ( 16C., GERMAN )  BALZO, REBALZO (16c. Italian ) A large, dome shaped cap. This hat completely covered the hair.
BUMPER BRIM  Hat with a tubular shaped brim. Size of brim and crown varies. See KRIZIA CAP for 1970's version
BUMPING  Term used for the process of final felting of a hood, further compressing and felting of hoods done in a bumping machine.
BUSBY ( BUZ BI )  A tall, cylindrical fur cap with regimental colored bag like ornament hanging form the top, over the right side. Brush on top of center front. Originally 15c. cavalry uniform of Hungarian Hussars.
BUSH HAT  Wide
BUTTERFLY HEADDRESS ( 15C.)   Variation of the HENNIN. Box like cap, wired and draped with sheer veiling so that it stands out like butterfly wings.
BYCOCKET, BYCOKET ( BY COCK ET )  High crowned hat with wide brim that is peaked in front and turned up in back . Middle Ages, 16c., Italian students in 20c.
CABAS ( KAH BAS )  Version of PHRYGIAN BONNET brought out by Sally Victor in 1956.
CABRIOLET BONNET (KAB REE O LEH, KAB REE AH LEH )  Large 19c. bonnet with brim, suggesting shape of two wheeled carriage top.
CALASH, CALECHE ( KA LASH )  Large folding hood supported by hoops, designed to be raised or lowered over the exaggerated 18c. hair styles and MOBS. Named after folding top of calash or light carriage. Also THERESE, GAUZIER, BASHFUL BONNET.
CALOT, CALOTTE ( KA LOT )  Small, round skullcap. Ancient Greek origin. In medieval times, worn under hood or crown. In 17c., worn under wig or as night cap over shaved head. Also ZUCHETTO, YARMULKA, SCHOOLBOY'S BEANIE or DINK.
CALOTTE  A close-fitting skull cap as worn by the Roman Catholic Clergy.
CALPAC ( KAL PAC )  Large, black cap of felt or sheepskin worn by men in Turkey. Also SHAPKA, COSSACK CAP.
CAMPAIGN HAT  Broad brimmed felt army hat with four dents in top of crown, W W I.
CAMURO ( CAH MOW RO )  Ermine trimmed, red velvet cap, larger than a skullcap, formerly worn by Pope of Roman Catholic Church.
CANADIAN MOUNTIE’S STETSON  Official head-dress of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.
CANOTIER  Boater (French).
CANOTIER ( KAN O TYAY )  French version of the straw sailor hat, with straight brim, flat crown. Also BOATER.
CAP  A hat with a small brim at the front.
CAP  Of ancient origin. Snug fitting head covering, usually with partial brim or visor. Many variations during Middle Ages for men, women and children. Modern versions as BASEBALL, HUNTING, JOCKEY, SPORTS, BOY'S ENGINEER, ARMY FORAGE, etc.
CAPE HAT  Half hat made by attaching fabric or felt to a bicycle clip.  Roughly shaped crown and brim of felt or straw, to be blocked into hat shape.
CAPELINE  Roughly shaped crown and brim of felt or straw, to be blocked into hat shape.
CAPELINE ( CAP E LIN )  Hat with small round crown and a wide, floppy brim.
CAPOTE ( KA POTE )  Close fitting bonnet with rigid brim, either of straw or boned into shape. Soft, shirred crown , ribbon bows tied under the chin, Victorian 19c. with deep ruffle in back. Also POKE BONNET, FANCHON, SCUTTLE BONNET, SUN BONNET.
CAPUCHE ( KA POOSH )  Long, pointed hood worn by the Capuchin monks.
CAPUCHON ( KAP YOO CHIN )  Medieval pointed hooded cape, the top stiffened down the center. Developed into the CHAPERON.
CAPULET ( KAP YOO LET ) ( FR. CA POO LAY )  Adaptation of Juliet cap, worn on back of head. Juliet Capulet, Heroine of Shakespeare's play, " Romeo and Juliet."
CARCANET  (jeweled necklace, collar or headband)
CARDINAL’S HAT ( FROM 13C. )  Red hat with short, rounded crown and broad flat brim. Rank was designated by the number of tassels which terminated the cords.
CARROTING  Preliminary treatment of wool or fur with acids, to curl the hairs. Produces a reddish-yellow colour which is the origin of the name.
CARTWHEEL  Woman's hat with very wide, stiff brim and low crown. Usually of straw.
CASQUE ( KASK )  French for helmet. A helmet shaped hat. Illustration is a 1980's version of the casque, covered with feather pads.
CASTOR HAT  ( KAS TER )  From French word for beaver or rabbit
CATER CAP ( KAY TER ) (19C., 17C. )  Term for square, university cap. Also MORTARBOARD.
CATHERINETTE   French term for milliners. Named after St Catherine the patron saint of milliners. The 27th of November is St Catherine's Day.
CAUBEEN ( CAW BEEN )  Irish slang term for an old and shabby hat.
CAUL  Historical term for a a net or close-fitting indoor head-dress, or the plain back part of the same.
CAUL  (an Elizabethan snood made of netting or fabric)
CAUL ( KOL ) ( 14C., 15C., 16C. )  Headdress of hair arranged at each side of the head in silken cases. Arrangement covered with net of silver or gold cord, inter spaced with jewels and beads. Held in place by a golden headband or crown fitted over the upper edge of the caul. Also GOLDEN NET CAUL, RETICULATED HEADDRESS, CREPINE, CRESTINE, CRESPINETTE.
CAVALIER HAT  A wide-brimmed, plumed hat worn by cavaliers in the 17th century  the right side of the brim was pinned up to the crown so that the wearer's sword arm could move freely above the shoulder.
CAVALIER HAT, CHEVALIERS (17C. )  Wide brimmed hat, velvet or beaver, trimmed with ostrich plumes on the left side or back. Usually one side of the brim is cocked or rolled. Seen in portraits of aristocrats of the period. The gentleman's hat as portrayed by the Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Van Dyck, and the Dutch painter, Frans Hals. The CAVALIER hat had the crown circled with jeweled necklace or a gem encrusted sil band. Although some Puritans are pictured wearing the Cavalier hat, the usual Puritan and Quaker hat was of the same high quality but without the plumes or ornate band and the brim worn straight.
CHADOR  The traditional concealing garment worn by Moslem Women in public was semicircular, and wrapped around the head.
CHAPEAU ( SHA PO )  French word for outdoor head covering. A chapeau has a crown and a brim.
CHAPEAU CLAQUE  See Gibus hat.
CHAPEL CAP  Circle or triangle or lace, formerly placed on the head when entering a Catholic Church for services. It was carried in purse.
CHAPERON  (a hood, especially an ornamental or an official hood)
CHAPERON ( SHAP AH RON ) ( MIDDLE AGES INTO RENAISSANCE )  Pointed hood ( long point known as liripipe ) with short cape. The hood face opening was placed over the forehead as a headband and the cape gathered up and pleated in the form of a fan . The liripipe was twisted around the pleated cape to hold it in place. (14c. ) The petal scalloping or dagged or castellated edge was a variation. (15c. ) This was gradually sewn into place as a hat. The chaperon was made up over a stuffed roll or ROUNDLET. The liripipe eventually acquired great lengths.
CHAPLET  (wreath or garland for the head)
CHAPLET ( CHAP LIT )  Circle of fresh flowers, later fashioned in gold and enamels in Age of Antiquity.
CHARACTER HAT  Late 1970's rumpled tweed hat worn by New York Senator Pat Moynihan.
CHARLOTTE CORDAY ( SHAR LOT COR DAY )  Version of MOB worn by Charlotte Corday during the French reign of terror, 1793. Tricolor band and rosette was the distinguishing feature.
CHECHIA ( SHE SHEE A )  Berber skullcap or TASHASHIT. Deep cylindrical, flat
CHEF’S HAT   White, starched bonnet with tall crown . French tradition states that a chef’s hat should have 100 pleats to represent the number of different ways in which a great chef can prepare eggs.
CHIGNON CAP ( SHEN YON )  A little cap worn over the bun or coil of hair at the back of the head. Various styles and fabrics.
CHILD’S PUDDING  Hat with a strong brim ( bumper ) that acts as a shock absorber when the child is learning to walk and tumbles.
CHIRA  Indian Turban
CHOU ( SHOO, FRENCH WORD FOR CABBAGE )  Rosette of tulle, lace, velvet, or ribbon used as ornament on hats in the late 19c. In 1938, term used for a soft hat with crushed crown.
CIRCLET  
CITY FLAT CAP  Beret, with small brim, made of wool, felt, or knitted of black woolen yarn. ( 16c. ) See STATUE CAP.
CLAFT, KLAFT, HAT ( COPTIC FOR HOOD )  Ancient Egyptian striped linen headdress. After Napoleon's Egyptian campaign in 1798 , the French Foreign Legion adopted the curtain like headdress for desert warfare. See KLAFT for illustration.
CLOCHE  Women's hat of the 1920's. Close-fitting round crown, with no brim or a small flare at the brim edge. 
CLOCHE ( KLOSH ) ( FRENCH WORD FOR BELL )  Soft style of the 1920's, fashioned from a hood of chiffon or handkerchief felt. Hat that covered the head to the neck in back; it came to the eyebrows in front. A flapper age, boyish style.
COAL SCUTTLE BONNET ( LATE 18C., EARLY 19C. )  Bonnet with flat back and a scoop brim that resembles a coal scuttle. Also POKE BONNET, CAPOTE.
COALMAN HAT  A short visor cap with a protective flap at the back, derived from a hat worn by English coal deliverers to protect their backs from dust.
COCKADE  Ornamental rosette of ribbon or cloth, worn on a hat as a badge of office or as a decoration.
COCKED HAT  An old-fashioned three-cornered hat.
COCKED HAT  Hat with large brim that turned up in various ways. Also BICORNE, TRICORNE, CAVALIER, CONTINENTAL, ANDROSMAN KEVENHULLER.
COCKTAIL HAT  A small, often frivolous, hat for women, usually worn forward on the head.
COIF  Head-cover worn by nuns as part of their habit, often with long veils.
COIF  (tight-fitting cap worn under a veil)
COIF  Men's and women's close fitting cap of uncertain origin. ( koif ) Varying in style usually of soft cloth ( Medieval ). Worn by the clergy, under crowns of the nobles, under the metal helmet. In the 16c., worn under caps or the elaborate wigs. Through 19c., under wigs.
COIFFURE  (hairstyle)
COKE  ( cook ) See Bowler.
COMBS  
CONE  Conically shaped hood of felt or straw used as a base for blocking small hat shapes or crowns.
COOLIE HAT  A shallow conical straw hat with a large brim to protect wearer from the sun.
COOLIE HAT  Straw hat, usually woven in one piece, with a downward slant from a peaked crown. Hats worn by Chinese coolies. A straw hat fashion in 1980. Sometimes styled in fabric.
COONSKIN CAP  Daniel Boone hat, worn by American frontiersmen. Made from raccoon skins, with the tail hanging down in back.
CORNO ( 12C. )  The doges of the Republic of Venice wore the tall, conical ducal bonnet. From 13c. on the shaped cap it had the point rising from the upper back. Worn over the white linen coif. Last Doge of Venice ( 1797 ) was conquered by Napoleon.
CORONET  Small crown worn by members of nobility as a symbol of rank.
COSSACK  Adaptation of cap worn by Russian Cossacks. Usually of fur or felt. Hat wider at the top than at the head size. A style in the 1980's made up in Persian lamb and fur fabric for women. A winter hat for men worn at an angle with a center identation.
COUVRE CHEF ( Norman )
COVERCHIEF  (covering for the head)
COWBOY HAT  (see ten gallon) Hat with high crown and wide brim, originally worn by cow hands. Usually made of felt or leather. 
COWBOY HAT  Originally a felt hat worn by cattle herders. The 1980's "urban cowboys and cowgirls" were wearing straw and felt versions of this wide, rolled brim hat with high creased crown. Also STETSON.
COWL  (hood or hooded robe worn especially by a monk)
COWL OR CAPUCHON ( MEDIEVAL )  Monk's hood attached to a cloak.
COXCOMB  ( a jester's cap adorned with a strip of red)
CRESPINE  (type of headdress for women consisting of wire mesh cylinders worn on either side of the head,  used to confine the hair)
CRESPINE, CRISPINE ( GOTHIC )  A development in the RETICULATED HEADDRESS, consisting of the tight golden headband to which the CAULS were attached on the sides.
CROWN  Head-dress usually made of gold and worn as a symbol of sovereignty by monarchs. Also see Rastafarian
CROWN  THE TOP PART OF A HAT.
CRUSH HAT  A collapsible opera hat.
DANBURY SHAKES SEE MERCURY POISONING
DEER STALKER  A hunting cap with visors at the front and back, and ear-flaps that can be tied up over the crown. Made famous by the fictional detective, Sherlock Holmes.
DEERSTALKER  Sportsman's tweed, or cloth, cap with visors in front and back and earflaps outside and tied on top. Crown lined with scarlet poplin and reversible. As worn by deer hunters. Also SHERLOCK HOLMES CAP, FORE AND AFT, DUCKHUNTERS.
DERBY  Another name for a Bowler hat.
DERBY ( DER BI ) ( BRITISH, DAR BI )  In 1888, the 12th Earl of Derby visited the United States wearing a stiff, hard, brown felt hat that had dome
DESIGNER HATS  are sold with a designer label, they are not normally massed produced and have limited production runs, the materials used will be the same as those used in model hats, mostly hand sewn, these "pręt a porter" hats are blocked on metal pans, the hats in this category are bought by people who want to express their good taste and individuality, these hats are often worn with everyday clothes, designer hats are usually of a high quality, smart and practical to wear. Sometimes sold on their name, but most often by the design appeal.
DIADEM  A jeweled headband.
DISCO HAT ( LATE 1970’S )  A small hat worn above the forehead and tilted to one side, held on by an elastic or ribbon band in back. The discotheque was a popular place to observe fashion trends.
DOFF  The action of partially removing a hat by males as a sign of respect
DOLL HAT  Name given to small hats in various styles and materials. Usually worn forward and tilted above the right eye. In 18c. England, a feminine version of the MACARONI. In 1930, a hat designed by Schiaparelli. Frank Olive brought out a version in 1979.
DOMINO  (a half mask worn over the eyes with a masquerade costume)
DORMEUSE ( FRENCH FOR “SLEEPER” )  In 1770's, a cap of shirred lawn worn at night, with plaited ribbon, held on by a ribbon tied on top of the head. For daytime wear, the DORMEUSE BONNET came in many designs.
DOUBLE WHEAT  This straw is thick and coarse and although can be dyed to colour, is usually seen in its natural colour, golden brown. It is often used to make cheaper hats, it is hard wearing and if stiffened, hard to the touch, it has the smell of corn. This straw is easy to shape and difficult to sew.
DUCKBILL  Bonnet having a long, high, curving visor. Usually tied on with ribbon under the chin. Worn by Marveluese of French Directoire Period ( 1795, dee rek twar ). Also JOCKEY CAP, DIRECTOIRE BONNET.
DUTCH CAP  Close fitting, pointed crown, cap with brim rolling up and flaring out at the sides. Dutch woman's cap of lace or muslin. Also VOLENDAM CAP.
EASTER BONNET  Women's hat,  A new spring style to be worn at Easter.
EGYPTIAN CROWN  Illustration of the Egyptian Helmet Crown, from the portrait bust of Queen Nofretete, Dynasty XVII, c.1372
ENGLISH DRIVING CAP  Low-profile cap, originally only for men, with small brim at the front. Crown may be tailored with side panels, or gored.
ESCOFFIN ( 14C., 15C. )  Stuffed roll of various shapes. Originally a turban or heart shaped form, finally the two
ESPARTERIE  A flat sheet material used for the making of blocks and as a stiffening in the construction of hats.
ETON ( EE TON )  Cap worn by boys at Eton College, England.
EUGENIE HAT ( U SHAY NEE )  The EMPRESS HAT of 1859. Style of Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. A revival of this shape in 1931 was worn tilted over the right eye, and trimmed with ostrich feather. Style worn by Princess Diana in 1980.
FACTORY HATS  are the hats that people are most likely to see in hat shops, department stores and any other shops that sell hats , they can be offered at many different levels of quality and design ranging from low to mid price levels. The hats are mostly massed produced, blocked on gas pans, sometimes made and trimmed with materials of a lower quality, the trims are often attached by glue gun as opposed to sewing. These hats are worn for many reasons, often worn by ladies that have an occasion to go to but do not wear hats regularly, other hats in this category are practical and sometimes casual. They offer good value for money to the occasional wearer. Price is an important factor to the customers of these hats.
FEATHER HEAD-DRESS  Ceremonial and symbolic head-cover worn by chiefs of North American Indian tribes.
FEDORA  A brimmed soft felt hat with a tapered crown that is dented lengthways. It comes originally from the Austrian Tyrol and is named after FEDORA a play by the French dramatist Victorien Sardou which was shown in Paris in 1882.
FEDORA ( FE DOE RA )  Men's soft felt hat with brim and lengthwise crease in crown , adopted by women. The name Fedora was after the heroine of Victorian Sardou's drama presented in Paris in 1882. Also TYROLEAN HAT, ALPINE HAT, HOMBURG.
FELT  Cloth made from wool, fur or hair, compacted (felted) by rolling and pressing, in the presence of heat and moisture.
FERRONIERE  Renaissance headdress of Oriental design that had a jewel in middle of forehead, suspended from a fine chain or ribbon that was tied around the head. Fashion revived at various times.
FEZ  Brimless, conical, flat-topped cap with a tassel attached at the top center. Men's head-cover, made of red felt, worn in Islamic cultures.
FEZ  Red or black, felt cap that is shaped like a truncated cone and trimmed with a tassel. Turkish official dress from early 19c. until outlawed in 1923. Still worn in other parts of the near East. Got its name from Fez, French Morocco, where juice of red berry, used for dye, grew in vicinity. Also CHECHIA, TARBOOSH.
FILLET  A band for the hair.
FILLET  (narrow strip of ribbon or similar material, often worn as a headband)
FILLET  A band worn around the head that holds the hair in place. In the early 13c., the fillet widens into a pillbox,.
FISH TAIL  Ribbon with a decorative v-shape cut at the end.
FLAT CAP  (flat crowned  brimmed hat often worn over a biggin)
FLAT CAP  See CITY FLAT CAP, STATUTE CAP.
FONTANGE ( FON TAHNZH )  Style originated in 1678, when the elaborate headdress of Duchess de Fontange was disarranged during a royal hunt. She tied her curls up with a garter of ribbon and lace and created a fashion. She became mistress of Louis XIV. This high curled coiffure with ribbon loops later became the BONNET FONTAGE, with a lace peak in front and a small cap. Fashionable until 1714, when Lady sandwich, while presented at the French Court, appeared in a simple low hair
FORAGE CAP  Military cap with a small brim.
FORAGE CAP  Late 19c. American Army cap. See KEPI, Copy of German cap.
FRENCH HOOD ( 16C. )  Worn in various forms. The French Hood gradually replaced the Gable Hood. Smaller versions of the French Hood appeared in Holbein portraits. ( Lady Lee )
FRONTLET ( 15C. )  The CALOTTE had a black velvet or gold, rounded or V
FULLING  Tumbling and pounding of cloth in hot water to induce felting.
FUR FELT  Any hood or capeline of felt made from fur fibers.
GABLE HOOD  (name is derived from the four-sectioned shape of the hood which frames the face with what looks like a gable)
GABLE OR DIAMOND SHAPED HOOD ( 16C. )  Hood with back curtain long. Front lappets down on either side or pinned up. Later versions showed back curtain divided and pinned up. Style associated with the reign of Henry VIII, as portrayed by court paint, Holbein. Also PEDIMENTAL HOOD.
GAINSBOROUGH HAT  A high crowned big brimmed hat decorated with feathers and ribbons became popular in the 1780's
GAINSBOROUGH OR MARLBOROUGH ( 18C. )  These two English portrait painters influenced feminine fashion. Hat had a low crown and wide brim that turned up at one side, trimmed with plumes and taffeta or velvet ribbon. Designed to cover elaborate headdress.
GARBO HAT  Slouch hat. (a soft, broad-brimmed hat)
GARIBALDI PILLBOX ( 1860’S )  The braid scrolled pillbox, inspired by the triumphs of the Italian liberator, Garibaldi, was adopted by fashionable women in London.
GAUCHO ( GOW CHO )  Hat with wide tilted brim anchored with cord that tied under the chin. Worn by South American gauchos.
GAUCHO HAT  A black felt hat with a wide flat brim and shallow flat-topped crown.
GIBSON GIRL ( 1890’S )  Sailor hat style shown in illustrations by American artist, Charles Dana Gibson.
GIBUS  Collapsible top hat. [French, from the maker's name.]
GIBUS ( JY BUS )  Man's collapsible silk opera hat. Patented in 1837 by French inventor, Gibus.
GLENGARRY  Highlander's cap of thick-milled woolen cloth, generally rising to a point in front, with ribbons hanging down behind
GLENGARRY BONNET  Blue woolen cap creased through the crown, like today's overseas cap. Appeared in 1805 in Glengarry, Invernesshire, Scotland. Cap has stiff sides and bound edges, finished with short ribbons hanging in back. GOB CAP
GORGET ( GOR JIT ) ( 14C., 15C. )  Draped linen or silk cloth, covering neck and pinned to the hair plaits or chin strap. Also tucked into neckline of grown. Also GUIMP.
HAIR NET  
HAIR RIBBON  
HAIR TIE  
HALF HAT  Any small hat that covers part of crown area.
HAT  Item of dress worn on the head, from a word of Saxon origin meaning hood.
HAVELOCK  Protective material that covers the neck and is attached to back of cap. ( Sir Henry Havelock, 1857 )
HEAD ( 1770’S )  Monstrous hair and hair covering styles worn during reign of Queen Marie Antoinette.
HEADBAND  
HEADCLOTH  
HEADDRESS  
HEADRAIL ( 10C., 11C. ) ( BRITAIN )  Woman's headdress, consisting of drapery wrapped over the head, around the neck, and crossed over the shoulder.
HEART SHAPED HEADDRESS ( 15C. )  The CAULS developed into wide horned headdresses. In time the horned formations gradually rose from a horizontal position to a vertical position. This created a heart shaped effect.
HELMET  Protective or ceremonial head-cover, for soldiers.
HENNIN  A high conical hat with a veil attached at the top, worn by women during the 15th century.
HENNIN ( 15C. )  Term later applied derisively to all huge head coverings. The Oriental tiara headdress from the end of which floated a light veil. Long, usually pointed headdress brought to Europe by the Crusaders. Also LITTLE HENNIN, STEEPLE HEADDRESS ( tall ) BUTTERFLY.
HIJAB  A covering for a Muslim woman's head and face, sometimes reaching the ground, often accompanied by the niqab (face veil).
HOMBURG  A man's hat, made of felt, with a narrow upturned brim, and a depression in the top. First worn at Homburg, town in western Germany usually trimmed with a band and bow.
HOMBURG ( HOM BURG )  From hat manufactured at Bad Homburg, Germany. Soft, elegant, felt hat with tapered, creased crown and rolled brim that had a bound edge. British version made popular by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VII of England from 1901 to 1910, who went to Germany for the spa. Popularity of the hat revived in the 1930's the 1940's and the 1950's. Worn by British Prime Minister, Anthony Eden. Dwight D. Eisenhower wore it for his inauguration as President of the United States in 1953.
HOOD  Cone or capelin of felt or straw for making hats.
HOOD  At first hoods were fashioned from a coned shaped piece of fabric with the face hole cut out. Medieval hoods were attached to short capes.
HOOD ( 20C. )  Nylon, cotton, insulated with goose down. Zippered front and tunneled draw cord gives wind tight fit to hood.
HORNED HEADDRESS ( LATE 14C., 15C. )  CAULS extended to great widths. They were supported with padded wires, and draped with veils that created a horned effect.
HORNS  
HORSEHAIR  Hair from a horse's mane or tail; a mass of such hairs; a fabric woven from horsehair.
HUKE ( RENAISSANCE )  Hooded mantle covering the head and body. From 11c., black clothe of Moorish design. Appeared in Europe ( 16c., 17c. ) in Netherlands, Flanders, Germany Spain. Also HEUKE, HUIK HAIK Worn by Arabs, Moors, Mohammedans as an outer garment for centuries.
JOCKEY CAP  Cloth cap with close-fitting 6-panel crown and wide brim at the front.
JULIET CAP   A round close-fitting skullcap worn by women. the style dates back to the Renaissance.
JULIET CAP ( RENAISSANCE )  Mesh cap decorated with jewels or pearls. A CALOTTE, takes its name from cap worn by Juliet in Shakespeare's tragedy, " Romeo and Juliet." Original story was published in 1476 in Naples.
JUTE  This hood is woven with a natural material similar to thick string. It is loosely woven and naturally soft, it has to be varnished heavily in order to keep its shape after blocking. When made into a hat it is light and cool to wear and allows air to pass easily through the weave. It can be dyed but colors are pastel in shade.
JUTE HOOD  Cone, capeline or sheet materiel made of jute fiber.
KAFFIYEH, KEFFIYED ( ARABIAN AND BEDOUIN )  The headdress scarf that is held in place by the AGAL.
KALPAK  A triangular Turkish or Tatar felt cap.
KAMELAUKION ( KAM E LAW KI ON ) ( ANCIENT )  Tall, cone
KATE GREENAWAY CAP  From illustrations in books written by Kate Greenaway ( 1846
KEPI ( KEP I )  Copy of German KOPPI, KEPI. Army cap adopted by French troops in Algiers. Cap with flat
KERCHIEF  
KIPPA  Skull-cap worn by Jewish men. Also known as yarmulke.
KLAFT, KHAT ( COPTIC FOR HOOD )  Ancient Egyptian striped lined headdress.
KRIZIA  Lacquered woven straw hat. Round crown with rolled brim. ( 1979 ). Also WEDDING RING.
KUFIE   Islamic (Muslim) prayer cap.
KULAH ( PERSIAN )  Pointed skullcap. Ancient Oriental, high, cylindrical cap of lambskin or felt.
KYRBASIA ( ANCIENT BASHLYK )  Persian or Median cap of felt, round, with flaps which could be fastened under chin, or with no flaps and a hanging cord.
LEGHORN ( LEG HORN OR LEG EN )  Finely plaited straw hat exported from Laverne, Italy.
LEURING LATHE  Turntable with a block to support a felt hat. The hat is placed on the block and, as it turns, it is then polished or "leured" with a plush or velveteen pad, to impart a shine to the felt fibers, particularly on the crown.
LIBERTY CAP  Phrygian cap.
LIBERTY CAP  Close fitting, red woolen cap with elongated crown on which the tip folds over. Style called "El bonnet rouge," inspired by French Revolutionists ( 1792
LIRIPIPE  (long scarf or cord attached to and hanging from a hood)
LIRIPIPE ( LIRA I PIPE )